Survey Results

I got my MPhil survey results back months ago (how time flies!) and I’ve been busy analysing and drawing conclusions from them. The online survey was the second part of my MPhil methodology for the communicating ethical fashion project and I targeted individuals within the age range of 18 to 30 who either work or study at the University. Choosing the sample was hard enough because ideally I would have liked to have had a sample representative of the whole of the UK, but of course that would be near impossible for just myself to complete. The reason for choosing the sample I did was because I had easy access to this group, young people generally shop regularly, and they have a whole lifetime of shopping ahead of them. They can more easily be moulded perhaps . . . the new ‘sustainable’ generation.

I had 89 responses which I was slightly disappointed with, however that changed when I began analysing! I had to get to grips with statistical testing for the first time, something I am keen to get better at if I want a career in research. I coded qualitative answers into themes, worked out means, medians, calculated scores and compared variables. Although I had touched on many of these areas before, it was still a steep learning curve.

As expected, it is difficult to draw significant conclusions from a fairly small sample; there were certainly no statistically significant points to variable changes. However, it was encouraging to see a strong ethical agenda and environmental awareness. When it came to shopping for clothes, the majority were regular and engaged consumers. There is definitely potential there to lead them to greater tools of communication. I was surprised how many respondents had heard of a number of ethical brands, not just People Tree but the smaller brands too. That said, not many had shopped with these ethical brands. A fair number of respondents described ethical fashion as bland, unfashionable, expensive, or hippie-ish, not an unusual connotation but still frustrating as there are so many beautiful/cool ethical garments out there. There was a reasonable awareness of terms like ‘organic’ and ‘fairtrade’ which was great, but a lack of specific responses.

To be honest, consumers shouldn’t have to be the ones making sacrifices, all garments should be ethical.

More LFW

More of my highlights,

Peter Pilotto

Sass & Bide

House of Holland

Betty Jackson

Aminaka Wilmont

LFW A/W '11

Its crazy to think that I was at the last London Fashion Week six months ago! It feels like yesterday. I didn't go this season due to having to get on with my thesis, plus its so much easier to catch up with the shows online! I was a bit tentative about skimming my mind past summer back to winter fashion but here are some of my fave A/W ’11 looks.

First I love everything at Mulberry, everything! Its totally wearable, beautiful textures and autumnal colours.

I also adore everything at Temperley London, much for the same reasons, just look.

Fairtrade Fairmined Gold

People involved in mining gems and metals don’t generally get as much press as the banana or cotton growers, but serious problems exist in these industries. With the world market price of gold soaring, fair treatment of the miners is a particular concern as hundreds of thousands of workers are lured to the industry. An estimated 15 million people work in artisanal and small scale mining, risking disease, serious injury and even death. Six times as many accidents occur in small scale mining as in large scale.

However, there is hope as February 14th saw the launch of the first Fairtrade certified gold. It seems odd that it hasn’t come sooner, but 20 jewellers have embraced Fairtrade gold in their products. This includes the world’s oldest jeweller Garrard, ethical brand CRED and luxury jeweller Harriet Kelsall. The Fairtrade Foundation website has a full list of brands to stock Fairtrade and Fairmined gold, and its not all super expensive (although it makes the perfect choice for engagement and wedding rings). This ring from CRED is made from recycled silver wire, covered in Fairtrade gold, handmade in Nepal, and it costs £85.

Bring Back UK Manufacturing

On the One Show tonight they did a piece about UK manufacturing and how a number of firms were moving production back from overseas. They covered a Yorkshire textile mill and explained how there just isn't the staff to keep up with the production they need. It is certainly true that more mid market brands are choosing to manufacture here, because of issues with quality and time delays. The 'Made in Britain' label also has a lot of weight in our ultra modern era where provenance is key. Yes its still cheaper to produce in the Far East, but the trend for heritage has improved the position of the UK industry greatly. The Made in Britain label is particularly popular in Japan and the US.

Many UK manufacturers have reported around 30% growth in orders over the last year and see that growth continuing through this year. This must be fantastic news for our economy?! Unfortunately it is not the first time that I've heard concern over the state of our workforce. manufacturing skills have died out and people just don't won't to do those jobs. I think this is such a great opportunity for us to help ourselves out of the recession, perhaps the Government can step in to support training and apprenticeships. Watch this space I guess, I certainly plan to do some more investigations.

Charity Shop Drapers Review

A first for fashion trade magazine, Drapers, as they featured a charity shop in their weekly double page shop review. This is a HUGE development. Charity shops have for far too long had a stigma attached to them, especially amongst the youth. There will always be people who won't step foot inside a charity shop perhaps because they think they are for old people, poor people, or they simply don't want to wear second hand clothes. Personally I think charity shops are the ultimate in guilt free shopping - you are recycling and diverting textiles from landfill, giving money to a good cause, and spending out less money than you would for a brand new item.

Charity shops have benefited from the upsurge in demand for vintage pieces no doubt, and as the article in fact says, the best charity shops should feel more like vintage boutiques than dowdy charity shops. Mary Portas tried to change the fortune of charity shops around in her series Mary Queen of Charity Shops, and her influence can now be spotted in shops up and down the country. The shop review in Drapers is a Mary Portas/ Save the Children collaboration. Positioned in Primrose Hill, it should attract donations from the well heeled types living and working in the area. They also rely on donations from the big brands, next month hosting a Rigby and Peller event.

Charity shops cannot meet all needs, they don't suit the time poor or those looking for a particular item, but if you do find a gem in your size it does leave you feeling a bit smug.

Partimi - Dieu Bleu

I came across Partimi at London Fashion Week last September, where the brand was showing in Estethica. Founded by Central St Martins graduate Eleanor Dorrien-Smith, 'Dieu Bleu' is Partimi's first full collection for S/S 11. The designs are striking but simple, and perfectly wearable for modern urban living. US retailer Anthropologie spotted Eleanor at her graduate degree show and immediately commissioned Eleanor to create a six piece capsule collection for their stores.

The new collection has been designed in homage to costumes that the designer’s

Grandmother collected from a sale of Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes costumes at Sotheby’s in the late 60s and 70s. The PARTIMI collection shows digitally printed organic silks and cottons that are inspired by the worn texture of hand painted decoration, simple graphic patterns and the movement of the dancers themselves.